In order to protect and develop blue calico technology and promote its technological innovation to adapt to the development trend of the contemporary textile market, it is of positive significance to redefine the dominant characteristics of blue calico. By introducing the innovative concept of sporadic color, the concept of innovative design is proposed from the perspectives of blue, print, flower and cloth, respectively, and the vivid and humanized sporadic color is to change the traditional style of blue print cloth and improve An effective tool for the market competitiveness of products. The advantages and disadvantages of the traditional hand-dyed printing process of blue-printed cloth in China are analyzed, and the main advantages of the four colors of the blue printed fabric, such as color, craft, pattern and raw material, are summarized.
The blue printed fabric is a traditional printing and dyeing process characterized by paper engraving, offset printing and indigo dyeing. The vegetable dye used has the advantages of insect repellent and environmental protection. According to historical records, the blue print fabric process was not later than the Southern Song Dynasty in the 12th century AD. It flourished in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. It has spread widely in China and has far-reaching influences. It is also known as “national quintessence and tri-dyeing†with batik and tie dye.
Compared with tie dyeing and batiking, the advantages of blue printed fabric products are uniform printing and dyeing quality, complete “flower back†cycle and high production efficiency of pellets; however, compared with modern flat screen and rotary screen printing and dyeing technology, the yield of natural plant dyes used is low. It is difficult to level the dye. If it is necessary to pursue leveling, it is necessary to reduce the bath ratio and repeated dip dyeing, which not only has a long operation time, but also consumes a lot of dyes, and the room for change in dyeing color is reduced.
As an innovative concept of contemporary color design, the occasional color blends into the blue print design, which will highlight the influence and control of occasional factors in the printing and dyeing process, emphasizing the non-standardized manual rhyme return, in order to reposition the blue print cloth. Advantage characteristics provide ideas for reference.
1 Color characteristics and innovative ideas of blue printed fabric
The beauty of the blue calico, "the blue beauty is the first essential." Indigo is derived from natural dyes. During the dyeing process, the reddish color appears in the redox process, and the brightness is gradually reduced to blackish black, which contrasts with the whitening anti-staining pattern. The traditional process of blue printed cloth is to gradually dye the textile into the dyeing bath, and the concentration of the dyeing liquid is correspondingly decreased. The process technology directly affects the color shade and color fastness of the blue printed cloth; in the finishing process, the indigo may be sorted out. The length of time, the size of the finishing strength and the type of finishing, there are uneven color phenomena such as brightness difference, purity chromatic aberration and hue fusion; in the process of use, friction, washing and other external forces may also cause partial fading of indigo, reflecting The natural dye molecules have weak binding properties and poor fixation properties. It can be seen that the indigo of the blue printed fabric is a relative empirical standard, rather than the standard color number defined by the international unified color system.
In the process of dyeing blue calico, consciously combined with the techniques of progressive dyeing, segment dyeing and splashing on the basis of the original dyeing process, the color of the occasional difference in color, such as depth and light changes, texture changes, color block contour changes Even the color effect.
Occasionally, the red, ochre, and color works in the hand-painted blue prints show that the artists of the past have boldly innovated the color of the blue print. If you break through the limit of indigo, 茜è‰((), æž‹ ((dark, tan), ç´«è‰(()), æ €å(()), æ§(()) The natural dyes and their combination are sufficient to meet the needs of rich blue calico color features.
2 Process characteristics and innovative ideas of blue printed fabric
The blue print fabric is characterized by the hand-printed version of the printed paper. The clearness and completeness of the color effect is better than that of the batik and tie-dye. The efficiency is much higher than that of the weaving embroidery jacquard, but compared with the precision and efficiency of modern mechanized printing. The market advantage embodied in the handicraft era no longer exists, so blue prints must re-establish product advantages in the non-standard nature of manual operations. The manual features should not be limited to the manual operation process, but should emphasize the humanized experience features, that is, accidental formation, difficult to copy, and should emphasize the effect of freedom and change in color and pattern. This is also the important connotation of the concept of sporadic color. One.
The blue printed fabric uses the engraved paper version of the printing technique of scratching the anti-staining paste on the white cloth, which has the commonality with the modern stencil screen printing. Replace the paper plate with modern screen printing, use computer graphics processing and photosensitive screen plate making technology to obtain the pattern with sporadic effect, and then print the anti-staining paste on the printing fabric to reduce the process limit of the paper printing. Get a more subtle color effect with chromaticity changes. If you do not give up the paper-printing process, you can directly fill the color paste with a rich color paste to form a blue-printed cloth that is directly filled with color. The "blue mark" effect of the white flower of the color ground can also be obtained by displacing the color paste containing the reducing agent or the oxidizing agent on the sporadic color ground.
3 Pattern characteristics and innovative ideas of blue printed fabric
Because of the technical limitations of the stencil printing, the blue stencils are arranged in a directional arrangement with dots or short lines close to the dots to express long lines and areas, and the composition space is biased toward the plane. The white spots of different shapes have a "light seepage" effect on the black and blue ground, forming a contrasting style. The pattern characteristics of the blue calico are mainly manifested in two aspects of theme and charm.
Compared with the long history of traditional Chinese motifs, the growth and maturity of blue calico is relatively late, and it is obvious to draw on the narrative and symbolic themes of traditional auspicious patterns, but in contemporary textile design, the symbolic meaning of graphics is weakening. Blue print fabric innovations need to be grafted with new themes to cater to the needs of popular aesthetics. The geometric pattern is a typical element in modern design. It embodies the simple features of modern crafts. Through computer forming and laser cutting, the geometrical structure of traditional handwork can be accurately applied to the paper design, which can be designed with Op Art style. The visual illusion of the blue print.
The blue calico pattern reflects the simple, delicate, delicate, beautiful and calm, and its typical stability limits the development of subsequent products in a certain sense. Today, the coordination of pattern rhyme with popular style has become the consensus of the design community, and the acceleration of popular change has become an irreversible trend. Therefore, the pattern of blue calico should be actively changed. In the post-modernism trend, random and arbitrary color graphics have received further attention. Drawing on the post-modern art concept techniques such as abstract expressionism, the paint paste can be directly sprinkled on the dark fabric to achieve occasional color-drawing effect, or the fabric of the anti-staining paste can be "shot" with water to form sporadic In the anti-dyeing state, it is possible to obtain a sporadic color effect with more prominent visual motion.
4 Raw materials characteristics and innovative ideas of blue printed fabric
The blue printed cloth is generally made of pure white cotton fabric woven by the soil loom as a substrate, and the raw materials are ordinary and the price is low, which is suitable for mass consumption. The raw materials determine the special printing and dyeing technology that is suitable for it. The blue printing cloth process has water washing treatment and drying finishing, and the shrinkage is small, while other deep finishing processes are relatively lacking. The main innovations are as follows.
1) Based on the texture of cotton, try to combine the blue calico technology with the special dyeing and finishing technology of other cotton fabrics to form innovative changes. The cotton fiber has the characteristics of puffing and shrinking in the presence of concentrated alkali, re-covering the missing plate on the blue printed cloth, directly printing the alkali, and obtaining the superimposed effect of the seersucker and the blue printed cloth. The blue calico with a blistering crepe produces a semi-stereoscopic embossing, with random color texture and light and shadow effects with more pronounced sporadic features.
2) Try to combine the innovative tissue texture of the textured yarn weaving with the blue print printing and dyeing technology. The blue printed cloth is generally made of plain weave and hand-woven. Inevitably, a number of flaws are formed on the surface, and the local anti-staining slurry may be broken and peeled off to break the pattern, so that it is impossible to express the realistic object delicately. If the strengths and weaknesses are avoided, the inspiration from the silk spinning is invented, and the woven and knitted fabrics of the blue printed fabric are woven with the textured yarn such as slub yarn and knot yarn to obtain a rough texture, and the concept of integrated sporadic color is more favorable. Solve the flaws in the blue print and strengthen its natural and nostalgic style.
3) Try to replace cotton with fabrics of other raw materials. In the ancient times of textile raw materials, the price advantage played a significant role in the popularity of cotton blue prints. With the improvement of people's living standards, cotton fabric is not the only choice for making blue prints. Once the blue print is liberated from the limitations of pure cotton raw materials, the dyes and printing and dyeing technologies compatible with the raw materials of the fabric are also liberated, resulting in a broader innovation space. If you use the weak acid dye to directly print and dye on the silk fabric to complete the pattern and color of the blue print fabric, you will get a silky blue print fabric with more delicate and delicate color and more luster.
5 Conclusion
In the personalized consumption boom, modern industrialized batch products are increasingly unable to meet the needs of the personalized market, which provides a rare new opportunity for blue printed fabrics. The modern innovation of traditional handicrafts is a shortcut to the improvement of China's modern textile design. Replacing the traditional stability with contemporary sporadicity, replacing the traditional technicality with contemporary art, replacing the traditional unity with contemporary diversity, replacing the traditional batch with contemporary uniqueness, forming the differentiated advantage of Chinese contemporary textile design. To make traditional classic crafts quickly connect with international trends.
For the innovative design of blue printed fabric, it is necessary to try all aspects from the aspects of color, craft, pattern and raw materials. The research results show that with the modern printing and dyeing technology, especially the new color concept combined with sporadic color, the blue calico fabric can realize the fusion of traditional style and the spirit of the times, presenting a refreshing new appearance and once again becoming a market consumer. Hot spot.
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